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24 August 2008 @ 12:41 am
Tenth Doctor coat  
Cross posted from  the 'doctorwho' community.

Ok, so I saw a posting from last year on this community (Doctorwho community) about people trying to get Abbeyshot to produce a tenth doctor coat and everyone saying that it would cost to much.

I make coats.  I don't do commissions or commercial production because I do not have the time, but I can produce professional looking long coats from patterns.

If people reply that they are interested, then I will keep this community updated on the progress of the coat and post tips and instructions to aid doctor who lovers in making their own coats.  Everyone here needs to understand that sewing is NOT HARD given that one can follow the pattern instructions, cut straight lines, and acquire the proper tools.  Far too few people sew today because they are warded off by how hard it seems or by looking at more complex garments.  Sure, I can't sew Donna's wedding dress, but I can slap a coat together in no time flat - it's roughly 10 unique pieces of fabric that sew together with mostly straight lines.

The reply to this will have the initial project draft/setup.  I hope it is appropriate to post this here - it's my first post on this community. Hi to everyone!
People? On my internets? - Maldelic Drakivazmaldelic on August 24th, 2008 04:44 am (UTC)
initial setup
Here's an initial project draft for those that desire the coat. Watch for developments as it progresses.

Base Pattern: Vogue Men 2613 cut B

Why this pattern?: It was chosen because it has the proper front side pockets, is double breasted, and because the front-back seam is just behind the armhole, not centered on it. Also, it is a pattern for a real garment, NOT a costume.

Mods Required: Change collar from peaked to notched, Extend length, ignore breast pocket, add box pleat in back, add darts.

Estimated production time: 3-4 weeks in my free time. (if you want a pure hours time for production, you'll have to wait until I'm done.)

Estimated Required materials:
-Good sewing machine: preferably with the ability to sew hidden hems, one-step button holes, and back-stiching; I will cover why in later posts.
-Basic sewing tools: sharp scissors that still cut for the full length of the blade, needles, threaders, tracing pencil/wheel, bobbins for your sewing machine, measuring tape, pins, etc.
-Muslin(cheap unrefined linen), final outside and lining cloth, and interfacing: Of course.
-Iron, ironing board, and a pressing cloth
-The pattern itself and tracing/carbon paper if you want to re-draw instead of cut down the pattern.
-(Reserved for later additions)

Cloth to be used: TBD, leaning towards a thick suede-cloth. This is where the real price comes in. The jacket looks like leather or some form of suede-cloth and the lining definitely appears to be the thick type with the shiny front side and flat back side. Leather will cost you... well lets no go there. Suede cloth can be acquired for about 10-20 bucks a yard and so can the thick lining.

Main Development stages:
1. Develop required modifications to pattern.
2. Cut/rough sew muslin mock-up (If you don't need too many structural mods, you can get away with just doing a mock-up of the outside.)
3. Tailor muslin mock-up to yourself and mark where the tailoring was performed.
4. Take apart mock-up and either use modified muslin pieces for pattern pieces or use the original pattern if you did not make too many changes.
5. Cut and sew final coat.

More as it progresses - once again, if people here are interested. I am willing to answer any and all questions. Maybe you'll think of something I haven't.
People? On my internets? - Maldelic Drakivazmaldelic on August 24th, 2008 04:45 am (UTC)
progress update 1
Progress -

70% done with cutting modified pattern pieces.

Lessons so far-

You will have a much easier time making this coat if you're not lanky like me. I'm actually sort of built like DT; 6 feet tall and so thin that people who hug me get paper cuts. Due to this, I have to extend the vogue pattern about a foot on all of the long pieces (partly due to making it an accurate length and partly due to my being tall.) and I have to extend the sleeves about two inches. The long parts are pretty easy to extend, but it would be easier with a sewing board. Add that to the materials list - sewing board. For those who don't know, it's basically a giant piece of cardboard with a 1inch x1inch grid drawn on it. The sleeves, however, are more difficult to extend because you have to redraw the curved contour that they have. In short, you will have an easier time if you're short.

Next, get your own pattern. I am borrowing someone's pattern and they want it left intact. so I have to re-trace every single pattern piece in addition to modifying it. Not hard, but definitely time consuming. You need weights to hold the patterns down. Heavy soup cans like the ready to serve (non concentrate) soups work.

Pitfalls so far -

-The sleeve lining contour is a little funky due to having to extend the sleeve. It shouldn't really matter in the end, especially since it's the lining, but once again be careful if you ever have to re-draw a sleeve.

Next expected update: Pictures with an exploded pattern piece layout view of half the jacket.
Year Round Producemichelf on August 24th, 2008 05:24 am (UTC)
I'm always interested in coat tactics.
KnitChick: Doctor Awesomeknitchick1979 on August 24th, 2008 07:57 am (UTC)

You are made of awesome! THANK YOU! Right now I can't afford the materials (kinda beyond broke) but I am putting this post in my memories for when I do have the money because I really want to make a Ten coat. I'm shorter (5'2" with curves) so I guess I wouldn't have to redraw the sleeves longer...though I may have to shorten pieces but I'm guessing shorter might be the easier modification?

BTW You wouldn't by any chance be interested in doing this kind of post for Jack's greatcoat would you?? ;) I'm a pretty decent sewer, but I still consider myself something of a beginner. I can follow a pattern but when it comes to modifying/redrawing I suck big time. And I really need a true Torchwood style Jack coat (so my current Jack coat can become the Empty Child/Doctor Dances edition coat). Again...down the road when I have money. But I really really covet that coat!
People? On my internets? - Maldelic Drakivazmaldelic on August 24th, 2008 03:25 pm (UTC)
I've reviewed the coat a bit, basically it's the same as the doctors in basic pattern but it has less darts (as jack is more beefy), epaulets, and it's made of a decently thick grade of wool. The instructions I intend to eventually develop should be able to guide someone to make jack's coat - i might so a separate section for it but I won't make it myself. One coat is enough for a year.
Nancyshadoweave on August 24th, 2008 03:28 pm (UTC)
If you're really interested in modifying or creating your own patterns, you should get your hands on a copy of How to Make Sewing Patterns by Donald McCunn (http://www.amazon.com/Make-Sewing-Patterns-Donald-McCunn/dp/0932538002).

You can always work the kinks out of a pattern by using a muslin. And you don't need to go buy muslin fabric for that - pick up some old sheets at the Goodwill and use those.
Nancyshadoweave on August 24th, 2008 02:55 pm (UTC)
I'm in the middle of doing The Coat for my son's Halloween costume. I've been doing a lot of research for it, mostly because I love a challenge and I love The Coat!

I'm using Garment Designer to map out the basic pattern, and adjusting the printed-out pattern by hand (GD doesn't support moving the side seam back or two-part sleeves). I grabbed a few screenshots that really show the back and side well.

The side: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh119/ripsmatta/coatside.png
The back: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh119/ripsmatta/coatback.png
The back during a wardrobe failure: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh119/ripsmatta/wardrobefailure.png

From what I can tell, there is one long dart in front, which the buttons are on top of, two darts on the side, which terminate at the top of the pocket flap; on the back, there is a long seam that terminates midway up the sleeve (similar to a princess seam), and a long dart midway between that seam and the back pleat. The back pleat splits into the tails at the waist, and there are buttons on the right coat tail.
People? On my internets? - Maldelic Drakivazmaldelic on August 24th, 2008 03:22 pm (UTC)
Well, that wardrobe failure shot just helped a LOT. I know how to work out the box pleat-to-tail transition now. Thanks.

As for my observations, here's the lines from front to back. There's the dart under the buttons, two darts under the arm, the front-back panel seam, two more darts, then the box pleat. The darts on the back are best visible in the first scenes with Brannigan in Gridlock (Season 3).

I don't have any fancy programs for it - I'm just doing it by hand and my good sense of how objects connect in 3D. Also, I believe from the fact that the sleeves are two-piece and that the coat panels join further back than center that the sleeves are curved style sleeves. Be sure that you're cutting those because just adding an extra line in straight sleeves isn't the same (Although it's close)
Nancyshadoweave on August 24th, 2008 04:01 pm (UTC)
I'll have to go back and check out that scene from Gridlock - thanks! I think I'll stick with my dart configuration for my son's coat - he's not big enough around for that many darts (lol!). I already had to reduce the number of buttons on his suit from 4 to 3. If you're curious, here's my progress so far.
Nancyshadoweave on August 24th, 2008 04:19 pm (UTC)
I just checked out that Gridlock scene and you are right - there are two darts between the box pleat and the seam. But, like I said - I'll stick with my configuration for my son's coat - that many darts would look funny at that scale.

Garment Designer isn't that fancy, but it does allow you to move and change darts around and resize patterns easily. I actually bought it years ago to create my own knitting patterns, but I think I've used it more often for sewing.
Traveling in Time and Space, you and Isnakewhissperer on August 24th, 2008 03:13 pm (UTC)
oooh, i'd be interested in tips! i can sew straight lines and french seams but i'm still working on how the pieces fit togehter - if you can tell me what he pieces are shaped like and , you know, which piece goes where, I can do the rest!

*is interested*

mothernatureiammothernatureiam on August 24th, 2008 03:24 pm (UTC)
I had to make my first coat (tux with tales coat) for my hubby for Cub Scouts (he was the ring master in a circus themed parade). I didn't have a pattern, so I just winged it....a little tight in the shoulders but otherwise ok. I have never tried to do a pattern *intimidated* but I can sew. I love the info here and will try to make a 10 coat for my son (who now has glasses and haircut like 10!) Thanks!!
tia_tarinatia_tarina on August 24th, 2008 04:10 pm (UTC)
Thank you very, very much for taking on this project!

I can sew basic things, and I'm very tempted to try this project if I can find someone to mentor me.

Thanks again, you are so full of win!
hydeco on August 24th, 2008 05:32 pm (UTC)
My sister wanted a coat like the Doctor's, only a women's coat, and we decided to work from Folkwear #230 "Model T Duster" (there was a pattern for a similar style of coat in Vogue, but it had a bit too much curve and flare in the skirt for her preferences). The main thing to modify with the Folkwear pattern is the pockets, which are on the outside but should be on the inside. There's no back inside box pleat on the Folkwear pattern either, but I'm not sure if that's really something you'd want in a women's coat.

"How to Make Sewing Patterns" is a good book, and I'd also like to recommend "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" and "Draping for Apparel Design," both by Helen Joseph-Armstrong. They were my textbooks last year (so they're expensive, sorry) and they're very in-depth, very useful. The draping one is especially good (but then, I'm a much bigger fan of draping than flat patternmaking).
Elvish Kitty: Into the Tardiselvish_kitty on August 24th, 2008 05:37 pm (UTC)


You're awesome.
People? On my internets? - Maldelic Drakivazmaldelic on August 24th, 2008 10:28 pm (UTC)
Fabric Acquired!
For any potential doctor coat makers, I've found a really good match at Jo-ann fabrics.

At my store at least, it's on sale this week for 10.99/yard (50% off normal) Here's the info going from the receipt as I didn't look at the cloth name - I just knew.

The fabric is from the Home Decor section. It's 54 inches wide and is mid-heavy weight. The item is 7951189 "Signature Suede Taupe" in light brown. I will admit that I don't know if the stock number will be the same at your stores but when you see it, it will scream 'DOCTOR' at you. I will try to get some pictures up later, but I have to find my card booster for my phone's memory card. The color looks like an exact match and the fabric texture is feels close to how I heard it described by someone who had actually touched one of the coats.

Animal lovers may be concerned because many polys died to make this polyester fabric :) .

Later on: Pictures.
Nancyshadoweave on August 25th, 2008 02:48 am (UTC)
Re: Fabric Acquired!
That 7-digit number is good for all JoAnn's stores. I think I've seen that fabric before - it does look quite good.
People? On my internets? - Maldelic Drakivazmaldelic on August 25th, 2008 04:21 am (UTC)
Exploded view and cloth
I've finished cutting the modified pieces, so now it's picture time! Here's hoping that LJ recognized the simple HTML code I used for the links and that my photobucket's very limited bandwith holds up.

Exploded Pattern Piece View

Please forgive the quality of the photoshop additions to the diagram. I could do better, but this is only to give people a rough idea. You'll see it better once I put together the muslin mock-up.

Chosen cloth for the outer coat

Taken on a cell phone camera, but you can get the idea of what it should look like.

Next step - Muslin Mockup!

Rebecca: crafty adiposesorakirei on August 28th, 2008 03:11 am (UTC)
You people rock! *favorites this entry*
People? On my internets? - Maldelic Drakivazmaldelic on September 1st, 2008 02:36 am (UTC)
Short update
90% finished w/ muslin mockup. There are many construction tips I'll have to post on this since a few tricks I use on my straight sleeve cassocks will not work on the vogue pattern I started with. Fixing details and adding the darts is all that remains on the mock-up. The biggest thing at the moment is getting the collar right - I need to change the collar more than I thought to get it from peaked to a convincing notched collar like the DT coat.

College has started back up, so the updates will be less frequent, but I anticipate I'll have the coat done by October.