Log in

No account? Create an account
03 June 2007 @ 05:03 pm
A couple of people asked so here they are: the patterns for the knitted TARDIS and people that I made (see here)

Dr Who Patterns

Disclaimer: Dr Who, the TARDIS and so on belong to the BBC, not to me. These patterns are made entirely out of Mad Love and no copyright infringement is intended. Please don’t sell this pattern or anything you make from it or the BBC will send out its ninja lawyers to get us*. But do feel free to distribute this pattern to anyone who might be interested (please keep this disclaimer attached though!) and to make modifications to the patterns.

My knitting style is a bit haphazard and approximate, thus so are these patterns. I’ve tried to make them as clear as I could but if you have any questions please ask! I would love to see pictures of anything you make, especially if you’ve done something differenter to what I done.

Here is the pattern sheet with all the diagrams on it. If you have any problems (with the link or the pattern), leave a comment or email me at strangeadventurer at googlemail dot com and I’ll try and help.

*the ninja part is probably a lie, but you never know.

TARDIS Pattern

Preliminary ado
My notes for this are rather jumbled I’m afraid. It was too long at first, so I hacked off the bottom. Then it was too short so I picked up all the stitches along the bottom and added some rows. It might be easier to turn the pattern upside down (not literally, that would just make it hard to read) and start at the top. This’ll make it easier to adjust the height without having to unpick a huge amount and redo all the windows and whatnot. Also I can’t remember what size needles I used! I think it was either UK8s or 7s, possibly 9s (US6s, 5s, 7s or 4mm, 4.5mm, 5mm respectively). Anyway, the gauge worked out at about 20 st and 32 rows making a four inch square in st st using DK acrylic.

You’ll need four colours: TARDIS blue (MC), darker (CC) and lighter blues for the accents and white for the windows. The embroidered shadows on the panels are a bit approximate (as is most of my knitting!); the charts show what I was aiming for but just do whatever looks right!

I made the “Police box” signs by writing on felt with a tippex (white out in the US, I think!) pen and sticking these to the tops. I originally intended to embroider them but this proved beyond my abilities! This is why there are dark strips in the knitting at the top of each panel, you could omit this if you like but I found they were quite helpful as a guide when I was positioning the TARDIS on its cardboard innards.

The light is made from sticking together three hexagonal beads; two white and one blue. I spent a long time in my local craft shop wibbling about exactly how to do this and I quite like the way it turned out! But again, do whatever looks right for your TARDIS.

This pattern makes a TARDIS with doors that open but it should be quite easy to adapt it for one with doors that don’t open which would be somewhat less complicated to make.

And without further ado, on with the pattern!

CO 84 st. Work even in st st for 45 rows with MC starting with a knit row.
46: P6, *purl pattern 1 for 23st, p2* three times, p5
47: K5, *knit pattern 1 for 23st, k2* three times, k6
Alternate these two rows until 10 rows have been worked altogether.
Work two rows even in st st with MC.
Cast on 18st at end of next row (102 st).
59: K1 with MC, *k17 with CC, k8 with MC* four times, k1 with MC
60: P1 with MC, *p17 with CC, p8 with MC* four times, p1 with MC
Rep row 59 once more.
Work two rows with MC in st st.
Cast off all sts.

Right door
CO 12 st
Work 41 rows in st st with MC
Work in pattern 2 for 10 rows.
Work three rows in st st with MC
Cast off all st.

Left door
CO 12st
Work 30 rows in st st with MC
Work 10 rows in pattern 3 (this makes the panel thingy)
Work 1 row in st st with MC
Work 10 rows in pattern 2
Work three rows in st st with MC
Cast off all sts.

Cast on 25 st
Work in st st with MC for 4½”
Cast off all sts.

Making up
If you want to embroider the words “Police Box” etc onto the dark bars at the top of the TARDIS, now’s the time! You’ll also need to embroider on the window frames and panels. Pattern 4 shows what I was aiming for. Basically all the panels need to be rectangles six stitches by ten rows, two rows and three stitches apart. The top and left sides of the rectangle are done with two big stitches in the darkest shade of blue, the bottom and left sides are two big stitches in the lightest blue. Make sure your needle goes through the gap between the knit/purl stitches and not through the wool itself: this looks neater and makes it easier to unpick when you realise that it’s gone horribly wrong. In practice I think that none of my panels were actually ten rows high but this doesn’t matter; the important thing is that they’re rectangular and that they line up with each other and the windows. You’ll probably have to unpick and redo them a few times until you get them right. It’s worth taking some time doing this, because they’ll only annoy you if they’re wrong! The windows are more straightforward. They just need to be divided into six panes with the middle blue that you used for the TARDIS.

Sew the narrow bit on the top right hand corner of your TARDIS to the top part of the far left hand corner. (See pattern 5; the dotted line is the seam.) Sew the roof in place.

This is the fun part!
First you’ll need to measure your TARDIS. It’ll probably come out having slightly different dimensions to mine what with people knitting at slightly different tensions and so on, and also I forgot to write down the measurements when I did mine. You need the height, the width of one section, and the depths of the doorframe (from this you can work out the size of the doors). It’s probably best to overestimate the measurements slightly – it doesn’t matter if the knitting is a bit stretched but you don’t want it all loose and baggy. The only exception to this is the doors which need to be very slightly smaller than the space so they’ll close neatly like mine don’t. I used the card from an amazon package for the frame – it’s fairly sturdy but not too much of a pain to cut out. Make a piece for the floor the size of the roof. Tape your frame together leaving the doors separate.
Glue the cardboard doors to the back of the knitted ones and put them under something heavy so they stick. Pull the knitted TARDIS over the cardboard frame and fiddle it into place. It’s worth taking a while over this. Stretch the knitting out and glue it to the frame all around the edges, pinning it in place as you go to stop it just curling up and peeling off. Leave to dry.
Seam the doors to the edge of the frame. It might be easier to do this before you glue the thing together, but I didn’t think of this! It’s a bit tricky doing it this way but it does mean you can adjust the positioning of the seam so the doors fit reasonably neatly. The knit doors are slightly bigger than they need to be so you’ve got room to play. When shut they should overlap in the middle hiding the cardboard join.
Cut four pieces of dark blue felt the same size as the dark bars at the top of the TARDIS. Write “Police Box” on them with a tippex pen and glue them in place.
Glue light to top of box.
TA-DAH! You has a TARDIS! Now all you need are some people to have adventures in it.

Speaking of which…

Tosh pattern

Worked with 2¾ mm needles and double knitting acrylic wool, various colours (top/trousers/boots/skin)

Body front
CO 11 st in top colour.
Work even in st st for seven rows, beginning with a purl row
8: K1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1 (9st)
Work even in st st for four rows
13: P9 in pattern 6
14: K9 in pattern 6
15: P9 in pattern 6
16: In pattern 6, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1
Cast off all sts in appropriate colours.

Body back
Work as for body front but use top colour throughout.
Seam body sides leaving top and bottom open.

CO 9 st in trouser colour.
Work even in st st for four rows, beginning with a purl row
5: P4, p2tog, p3
Work even in st st for 4 rows
10: Change to boots colour. K3, k2tog, k3
Work even in st st for four rows
15: P3 , p2tog, p2
Work even in st st for four rows
20: K3, sl1, yo, sl st back, yo, turn
21: P3
22: K3, * sl1, yo* twice; *sl st back, yo* twice
23: P3
24: K across
25: P
Break yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread this yarn through the remaining stitches, pull tight and sew up leg in appropriate colours. The yarn over bit should produce a definite foot part to the boot.
For second leg reverse pattern, ie purl where it says to knit and knit where it says to purl. This means that the seams will be on the inside for both legs.
Poke the ends of the legs into the bottom of the body. Make sure the feet are pointing in the right direction! Seam the bottom of the body shut.

CO 4 st in top colour
1: P4
2: K1, *m1, k1, rep from * twice more
Work three rows even in st st.
Change to skin colour
Work 5 rows in st st
11: P3, p2tog, p3
Work 5 rows in st st
17: P1, p2tog, p1, p2tog
18: *K1, k into front and back of next st* twice (these two rows make the wrist)
19: P
20: K
Break yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread this tail through rem st and pull tight. Seam arm, leaving top colour section open. Sew this bit flat to body. Leave tail untucked to sew up shoulders.
For second arm, reverse shaping ie knit the purls and purl the knits.

Head front
With skin colour and leaving a long tail of yarn, pick up five st along front of body (more or less in the middle!). Work even on these five st for three rows, starting with a purl row.
4: K2, m1, k1, m1, k2
5: P
6: K2, m1, k3, m1, k2
7: P
8: K
9: P
10: *sl 1, k2tog, psso* three times
Place sts on a holder. Break yarn.
Work head back same as head front.
Seam side of head with the long tail you left when you picked up the first five st. At the top of the head, thread the yarn through all six live st and pull tight. Seam down the other side of the head, stuffing the head and body before you get to the bottom.
Sew up the shoulders (you’ll only need a stitch or two) with the tails you left from the arms.
Tuck in all ends.
Use wool to make the hair; don’t worry about it all being the same length, you can give your doll a haircut when you’ve sewn it all in place! I used one strand of embroidery thread to do this, and used the same strand to embroider the features on the face. I used little black beads for the eyes. You can try and sew on the features before you seam the head if you like, but I found it very difficult to get them in the right place this way!

Zoe pattern

Worked with 2¾ mm needles. The face, hands and shoes are made with DK acrylic in flesh colour and white. For the body I used DMC embroidery cotton “Precious metal effects” shade E317 (I needed three 8m hanks) held together with something called “Twilley’s Washable Goldfingering” (20% metallised polyester, 80% vicose) shade 5. If you use different yarns you might need to adjust the gauge a bit. The goldfingering stuff is very stretchy whereas the embroidery thread really isn’t so it balances it.

Body front
CO 4 st
Work 8 rows even in st st, beginning with a purl row.
9: P2, m1, p2
Work 8 rows even in st st
Break yarn, leaving sts on needle (one leg done!)
CO another 4st and repeat for second leg. Don’t break yarn!
Body row 1: Knit across both legs (10sts)
2: P
3: K4, k2tog, k4
4: P
5: k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1
6: P
7: K
8: P
9: K1, m1, K5, m1, K1
10: P
11: K
12: P
13: K1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1
14: P7 in pattern 7
15: Cast off 1 st, K5 in pattern 7, cast off 1 st (I know you’re not supposed to do this at the end of a row but with only one stitch it seems to work out ok!)
16: P5 in pattern 7
17: K5 in pattern 7. From now on work entirely in flesh colour (this is the head).
18: P
19: K2, m1, k1, m1, k2
20: P
21: K2, m1, k3, k2
22: P
23: K
24: P
25:*sl1, k2tog, psso* three times
(This is slightly different from Tosh’s head so it may be wrong! Just do whatever ends up looking right…)
Break yarn. Place all st on a holder.

For body back, work entirely in silver until row 16. From row 17 onwards work in flesh.

Seam body, leaving bottom of legs open, in appropriate colours. For head, thread sewing yarn through all six live stitches and pull tight before seaming the second side of the head (as for Tosh.) Stuff the body lightly as you go along; you won’t need much.

CO 4 sts in silver
1: P
2: k1, m1, k2, m1, k1
Work 8 rows even in st st
11:P2, p2tog, p2
Work 5 rows even in st st
Change to flesh colour. Work 2 rows in st st
19: P2, p2tog, p1
20: k2tog, k2tog
Break yarn, thread tail through remaining sts and pull tight. Sew up hand. Sew up arms, leaving about the top four rows unsewn (this doesn’t have to be exact; I did it by eye). Sew this section flat to body.

Repeat for second arm.

This is basically just i-cord, but I didn’t have any 2¾ mm dpns so I had to improvise a bit!
CO 5st in white.
K5, *sl5 back onto the left needle, k5* seven times. The trick is remembering to keep the needles in the same hands all the way through!
Break yarn. Thread tail through rem sts and pull tight. Weave in ends. Sew shoe to end of leg with sewing thread.
Repeat for other shoe.

Sew on hair and features as for Tosh.
Rachel: [dw] blinded by science!ack_attack on June 3rd, 2007 04:31 pm (UTC)
This is amazing!!! I definitely need to make one of these things soon.

Would you mind if I added this to the master list of patterns at fandom_knit?
shinyjenni on June 4th, 2007 11:04 am (UTC)
Thank you! And adding it at fandom_knit is fine.
Sunshiny Mesunstar77 on June 3rd, 2007 06:40 pm (UTC)
This is so cool. I'm totally knitting me a TARDIS this summer.
shinyjenni on June 4th, 2007 11:05 am (UTC)
Glad you like!
Janst_raoul on June 3rd, 2007 07:53 pm (UTC)
I love you! I'm making the hell out of this.
Evil Plotbunny: dalekhhertzof on June 3rd, 2007 09:54 pm (UTC)

However, the link doesn't seem to be working.
shinyjenni on June 4th, 2007 11:06 am (UTC)
Thanks! I've fixed the html on the link so hopefully it should be ok now...
Evil Plotbunny: dalekhhertzof on June 4th, 2007 11:44 am (UTC)

Thanks so much for writing out the pattern. I'll look forward to making it when I'm done with the current project.
shinyjenni on June 4th, 2007 11:05 am (UTC)
Aw, thank you! Hope you have fun making it.
Anath Viera: Rdm: Knit Purl Repeatanath on June 4th, 2007 10:34 am (UTC)
What a fantastic idea! I'm going to get on knitting this for my dad for father's day. Very awesome! Thank you for the pattern.
shinyjenni on June 4th, 2007 11:07 am (UTC)
Thanks! Hope your dad likes it.
(Deleted comment)
shinyjenni on June 12th, 2007 11:49 am (UTC)
Mine ended up as being 9 1/2" tall and 4 1/2" wide. The pattern's mostly made up of rectangles so don't be afraid to play about with it until it ends up the size you want!
(Anonymous) on June 20th, 2007 01:50 pm (UTC)
Do you have any pictures of the completed Tardis??
shinyjenni on June 20th, 2007 06:09 pm (UTC)
Re: pictures
There's a couple of pictures in this post - the first one is a bit blurry but the second one is better!